Installing Non Mortise Hinge
I have used non mortise hinges many times for inset doors. Think it takes much longer to install butt hinges than non mortise hinges if you are.
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• Drill • Self-adhesive notepaper (i.e. Post-its) • Package sealing or masking tape • Screws Step-by-step instructions on installing surface-mounted hinges If you like the idea of quick and easy hardware installation, you’ll love using surface-mounted hinges. There’s no complicated routing and chiseling—just great-looking results in a hurry. Whether repairing an old box or hinging a new one, the steps are the same. Photos by Robert J. Settich This article originally appeared in Taunton's Complete Illustrated Guide to Choosing and Installing Hardware (2003).
The finished product Add spacers and mark centerpoint: If you’re uncomfortable visually aligning the hinge, you can position it with a try square. Drill the pilot holes and drive the screws, but keep checking as you work to make certain that the base and lid remain flush. Repeat the process for the other hinge,and remove the tape and the spacers. The slightgap at the back of the box ensures that the front of the box will close tightly even when the box changes size due to changes in moisture content.
Drill the pilot holes Space and attach the hinge leaf: Make sure that the screw is fully seated in the countersink. Hook the plate over the end of the door, and register the barrel of the hinge against the face of the door. Drill pilot holes, and drive the screws into the holes in the hinge leaf that have the countersinks visible. Move the jig to the carcase, and set a spare hinge atop it and with the barrel against the edge of the carcase. The hinge will be backward in this position, so drill pilot holes in the leaf that has its countersunk holes toward the side of the carcase. A self-centering bit makes this an easy and accurate job.
Measure overhang The usual overlay for kitchen cabinet doors is 3⁄8 in. The face frame of this cabinet has rails and stiles that are 2 in. Wide, so rip a plywood strip 1-5⁄8 in. Wide, and place it flush with the bottom rail.
That way, when you rest the doors atop the strip, their lower ends will overhang the opening by 3⁄8 in. I also wanted a 1-5⁄8-in. Reveal along the vertical edge of the door, but I set my adjustable square about 1⁄32 in. Larger than that to compensate for a bit of springback when the laminate shim was removed from the hinge. Drill pilot holes and drive the pan-head screws to secure the hinge leaf to the stile.
Tips & Tricks for Installing Hinges No-mortise hinges make installing hinges easier. But there are still some tricks to getting the installation just right. To locate the hinges on the sides of the cabinet, I placed a piece of double-sided tape on each hinge (Figure 1).
Then I pressed the door against the side of the cabinet, using an 1⁄8″-thick shim to provide clearance, as shown in Figure 2. With the hinges taped in place, I carefully opened the door and used the hinge as a template to drill the screw holes (Figure 3). Then it’s just a matter of removing the tape and screwing the hinges to the sides of cabinet.